All the "go-to" shops in my area are lazy and will only recommend and carry out an underside reinforcement only (i.e.
#E46 M3 SUBFRAME REINFORCEMENT EPOXY INSTALL#
I had to reach out to a few local race shops and race teams to even hear me out on an install for the vincebar. One important thing to consider, not necessarily for you OP but for anyone thinking about the vincebar install, it's very difficult at least where I live to find a trustworthy shop that's actually willing to do the work. Between the two I just preferred retaining a stock looking trunk. It's pretty much a track car only these days+1 for vincebar here as well. I feel it's bullet proofed - check out the pics of their work for reference - promise. Also, had CMP solid bushings installed on Ian's recommendation and they are totally street-able. Had Epoxy/Rivets done on plates and then they ended up recommending to weld the bar in. I just had the Vince Bar done with the Skinz as well. TechCraft or Lang will probably be your best bet for this job since European Motor Works may not do the Vince bar installation. It increases the NHV very slightly, but definitely well worth it as it improves the handling tremendously.
For the rear trailing arm bushing, just get the Turner sealed monoball and that will be a permanent fix👍. I would personally stick with all OE parts if this car sees any time on the street. I'm approaching 100K on my car and they're still in great shape. The actual rear subframe bushings should last a pretty long time if funds permit, may be a good idea to change them out. You may also want to change out the input and output seals on the differential as they may start to leak given the age of our cars now. I know it is gonna be a hefty bill, but this will save you a ton in labor costs since everything is taken apart now. Double check with whichever shop you choose to perform the work to ensure they have the proper sized drill bits and cutting accessories if not, Vince should be able to provide them too.ĭepending on the mileage, age, and condition of your car, it is a good idea to service all the rear differential bushings (front bushing and 2 on the cover) and rear trailing arm bushings while everything is disassembled. I'm assuming I should replace the rear bushings as well? Any recommendations or should I just stick with OEM to keep the stock feel?Īnything else I'm missing that will need to be replaced? Thanks.Yep that's all you'll need! Be sure to get the hardware from Vince as well (the 4 extended threaded rods). Vincebar + Gusset Cups (Order through Vince) Yeah I'll get the front gusset cups as well.
Overall I was very satisfied with the work from all three shops TechCraft is probably going to be priced the most competitive of the three. Another year later, I took my car to TechCraft in Irwindale for a general inspection and they noticed a super tiny spot weld had popped along the rear driver's side wheel arch seam I'm thinking this was here before I had the Turner plates put in. A few years later I followed Vince's development of his bar, and had Lang Racing in Irvine install the topside front gusset cups and bar via rivet and epoxy method (my car was the guinea pig for this method of installation!). When I had my initial inspection done (around 2012.2013?), I had European Motor Works in Arcadia do the underside weld-in Turner plates. I used numerous shops for my RACP bulletproofing.
#E46 M3 SUBFRAME REINFORCEMENT EPOXY FULL#
Will you be using Vince's front gusset cups as well? Ideally you would want to include this to complete the full RACP reinforcement. Only until recently have some started venturing into using epoxies for adhesion of automotive sheet metals. Additionally, for most shops this is a tried and true method as they've been doing this for years now with plenty of experience. Some may argue that the epoxy method reduces the likelihood of corrosion welding, if done properly, should last a VERY long time, especially if your car is gonna be in the hot and dry southwestern states. Doing the epoxy on the underside plates only bonds them to the outermost layer. For spirited driving on the street, I think the Vincebar is more than sufficient as it also helps keep stock aesthetics and retains full functionality of your trunk space.įor underside plates, I believe Redish Motorsports out of the UK offer the best solution based on their experience, I believe they said that ideally you would still want to do weld-in plates as the plug welds help coalesce the numerous RACP layers into a much sturdier singular structure. The CMP does seem beefier and may be more applicable if your car was a dedicated track toy. Both topside bars more or less serve the same functional purpose.
0 kommentar(er)
